Wetsuit-clad fishermen pick barnacles from the dodging crashing waves on the rugged rocks of northwest Spain’s dangerous Costa da Morte (Death Coast) which is a valued Christmas delicacy that is in danger of going extinct due to climate change and other factors.
The Galician gooseneck barnacle which can fetch up to 200 euros ($208) per kilogram (2.2 pounds) over the holiday season has long been prized by Spaniards for its flavor and harvesting challenges. Because barnacles prefer cold waters, the climate change induced increase in sea temperatures has had a negative impact on their habitats.
A recent study from the University of Vigo connected declining shellfish quality to shifting wave patterns. Ten years ago there were twice as many barnacles as stated by Israel Martinez, an auctioneer at the A Coruna fish market, “A decade ago, there were double or triple the number of barnacles.”
Since barnacles are so valuable, illegal fishing has increased despite state rules that limit daily harvests to 7 kilograms per fisherman. To reduce the illegal hunting of barnacle, the licensed barnacle pickers or percebeiros have demanded more coast patrols. “The percebeiro trade on the Costa da Morte is dying. This is due to climate change, absurd laws, illegal fishing and a lack of workers,” stated the 36 year old Roberto Vidal who started out as a percebeiro at 16 told Reuters. He claimed that in the past, his town of Corme had between 100 and 200 percebeiros but there are currently about thirty.
Because of the unfavorable working circumstances, their occupation is categorized as a dangerous one. According to another fellow percebeiro Serafin Rodriguez, decreasing barnacle populations will make it impossible for future generations to continue the tradition.
The barnacle is known for their distinct flavor and the dangers of catching them have long been cherished by Spain people on Christmas.
